TThere’s nothing like that first bite after a long day of fasting. He is calm, deliberate and very relaxed. The stillness before sunset gives way to movement – setting the table, clinking glasses, pausing as everyone waits for the call to prayer. Then with a date in the hand and water on the tongue, he breaks the fast. That moment never loses its meaning, no matter how many times you experience it. Breakfast does not begin with a feast, but rather with small, simple things, like these two soups.
Sherpad (Lamb, oat and barley soup – pictured above)
Sherpad It is found in many cultures, especially in East Africa, the Middle East, and North Africa. The word comes from the Arabic language MustacheIt means “to drink” and refers to something light and warm. This is often served at the beginning of a meal, and although the ingredients and methods vary across different regions, the feeling is the same. This is a dish that many, myself included, only prepare during Ramadan, because it seems tied to the rhythm of the month. This version is gently spiced and comforting. If you prefer, use chicken instead of lamb. The soup freezes well too, so you can prepare it weeks in advance.
Preparatory school 10 minutes
He cooks 2 hours and 45 minutes
serves 8-10
500 grams Lamb shoulder on the boneCut into cubes
2 bowls of vegetable stock
400g A can of finely chopped tomatoes
180 grams Pearl barley
4 tablespoons ground oats
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon curry powder
5 tablespoons of olive oilOr sunflower oil
½ large brown onionPeeled and chopped
4 garlic clovespeeler
1 small bunch fresh coriander
Lemon juice or apple cider vinegarTo apply (optional)
In a large deep bowl, combine lamb, stock and 2½ liters of cold water. Place the pot on medium-high heat, and leave it until it boils, then reduce the heat to medium-low and leave it on low heat for about an hour and a half, until the meat is cooked.
Remove the meat with a slotted spoon, then cut it into small pieces; Discard the bones. Return the chopped meat to the pot and add the chopped tomatoes and barley. Cook uncovered for another 45 minutes over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, then add the oats, cumin, ground coriander and curry powder. Cook for 20 minutes, then remove from heat.
In a separate pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onions and fry, stirring, until cooked. Place the garlic cloves and fresh coriander in the mortar, then grind them until you obtain a paste. Add this to the fried onions and cook for another minute. Carefully pour the onion and hot oil mixture into the soup, stir and simmer for an additional 10 minutes.
Best served hot with fresh lemon juice or a teaspoon of apple cider vinegar per serving. The soup can be kept in the refrigerator for up to three months. To serve, simply defrost, heat and finish with a quick herbal oil. Don’t forget the vinegar or a squeeze of lemon to bring it all together.
suitable (red lentil soup)
This lentil soup, known simply as suitablemade with basic pantry ingredients, but always tastes more than the sum of its parts. I’ve been eating it since I was little, and it was one of the first meals my daughter was weaned on when we introduced spices to her. Only recently, a dear friend from Algeria introduced me to adding ras el hanout, a North African spice blend. The soup becomes beautifully thick the next day, almost like mushy dal, so I often serve it over rice; Otherwise, I’ll gently rest it on the stove with a little water and enjoy it as a soup again.
Preparatory school 10 minutes
He cooks 55 minutes
serves 4-6
2-3 tablespoons of olive oil
1 large onionPeeled and finely chopped
4-5 garlic cloves, Peeled and crushed
1 large carrot, Peeled and finely chopped
300 grams Split red lentilsrinsed
1 stackA tablespoon of vegetable stock powder
1⅓ tablespoon ground cumin
⅓ tablespoon ras el hanout
1 teaspoon salt
400 ml Coconut milk
1 large handful Chopped corianderPlus an extra amount for garnish
Lemon slicesFor service
Heat olive oil in a large pot, then add the onion and fry for three to four minutes until translucent. Add the garlic, leave it until it softens a little, then add the carrots. Stir everything together and fry for a minute or two.
Add the washed lentils and stir well – the mixture may clump, but keep stirring. Add the stock powder, cumin, ras el hanout, and salt, and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 30 seconds. Add coconut milk, 1.3 liters of cold water, fresh coriander and adjust salt to taste. Cover the pot, bring to a simmer and cook over medium-low heat for 20 minutes.
Blend the mixture halfway using an electric mixer to give it a creamy consistency while keeping some of the pieces intact. If necessary, add more water, and remember to check the salt. Simmer for a further 15 minutes, then serve hot garnished with additional coriander and lime wedges.
These recipes are edited excerpts from Ramadan Kitchen: Nutritious Recipes from the East to… “Eid” by Ilhan Muhammad Abdi, published by Pavilion Books, priced at £26. To order a copy for £23.40, visit guardianbookshop.com
