It wasn’t long ago that conversations about what “sustainability” meant in fine jewelry were ambiguous at best, and downright complicated and frustrating at worst. If you ask three different jewelry brands to define their sustainability policies, you’ll likely get three different answers — none of which are entirely satisfactory.
For example, using recycled gold may not always be sustainable, and while lab-grown diamonds tell a good story by avoiding the human exploitation often associated with mining, what is often not discussed is the energy consumption required to create those stones. Too often, sustainability claims in jewelry have more to do with marketing than fact, and don’t stand up to scrutiny. There is a word for such dubious claims of environmental virtue: greenwashing, coined in 1986 by American ecologist Jay Westerfield to describe the deliberate misrepresentation of the practice’s true environmental costs.
Fortunately, consumers have become wiser over the past 40 years and more curious about truly sustainable jewelry. They’re increasingly not afraid to ask tough questions before making a big purchase. In fact, the answers these consumers have asked for from diamond and jewelry houses have shifted from “nice to have to have to have,” says Sally Morrison, head of U.S. natural diamonds (rather than lab-grown diamonds) for De Beers.
Rebecca Silva, creative director at antique jewelry house Fred Leighton, agrees. “I’ve been here for 33 years, and the questions informed consumers are asking are not only more numerous than ever, but also incredibly specific,” she says. “They want to get into detailed conversations about old mine cuts or antique diamonds, but also where those stones came from at that time and whether that factory was considered ethical during that period. I also get questions about whether we have pieces by certain designers, such as [early and mid 20th century jewelers ] Georges L’Enfant or Andre Vasseurt. I find it wonderful that consumers do such extensive research in search of antique jewelry that is not only beautiful, but timeless and enjoying a new life with owners who love their backstories.
Where else do knowledgeable consumers get inspiration? The red carpet, of course. In fact, just as environmentally conscious stars are turning to vintage fashions to lower the carbon footprint of glamorous looks, many of today’s stars are turning to the past for their awards season jewelry. From Kirsten Dunst and Carey Mulligan at the Oscars to Kate Hudson at the Actors’ Awards, sustainable jewelry has dominated the red carpet choices. Sterling K. Brown and Paul Tazewell also made sustainable selections of vintage Fred Leighton brooches that adorned their tuxedos during recent awards events: Brown’s pink brooch at the Academy Awards on March 15 was a 19th-century design featuring ancient mine-cut diamonds, while Tazewell, winner of the 2025 Academy Award for Best Costume Design for evilmade headlines that night for the extravaganza of his own fashion, which included a 1950s diamond and platinum brooch featuring more than 45 carats of round and baguette-cut diamonds. “Both men and women communicated after that [Tazewell] “He wore this brooch,” Silva says. “But when it comes to brooches in particular, it’s men who are driving the trend and interest in vintage fashion.”
In jewelry, new doesn’t always mean unsustainable. It’s common these days for diamond companies to put their sustainable policies front and center on their websites – but only after ensuring they’ve been well vetted and can withstand scrutiny. After all, stars wearing new pieces want to make sure their choice won’t spark backlash on social media. “It’s not enough to choose something beautiful; you also have to make sure it was created responsibly,” says one Hollywood publicist. “Choose the wrong piece from the wrong company, and you could get called out on Instagram very quickly.”
Based in San Francisco, Brilliant Earth is a digital-first jewelry retailer that sells both lab-grown and natural diamonds and focuses on its sustainable and ethical practices. Her recent high-profile clients include Ciara Miller at February’s Grammy Awards, Olivia Munn at November’s Baby2Baby Gala, and Kristen Bell, who wore the brand while hosting the Actor’s Awards on March 1. In February, the brand announced it had been named the Most Sustainable Jewelry Brand in the 2025 Sustainable Jewelry Rankings by Intelligent Diamond International, an independent global organization focused on advancing standards for lab-grown diamonds and responsible jewelry.
“For more than 20 years, we have worked to redefine what sustainability, responsible sourcing and transparency look like in our industry,” Beth Gerstein, co-founder and CEO of Brilliant Earth, said in a statement. “This recognition reflects tangible progress, from verified net emissions targets and improved traceability to stronger health and safety standards and public reporting on our targets. It is a testament to our team and partners who advance this work every day. We believe that sustainability should be an integral part of how we design, supply and service our customers, and we continue to focus on advancing these practices across our industry.”
Although diamond conservation efforts by the London-based De Beers group stretch back to 1900, in 2009 the world’s largest diamond producer created a “new normal,” in the company’s words, after a comprehensive review of its strategies. Six years later, De Beers has partnered with the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals to employ a multi-pronged approach to its practices, announcing climate initiatives, a net positive impact on nature, community investments including jobs and education, and ensuring ethical sourcing through the use of blockchain technology and chain of custody, the documented path that traces a diamond from its origins as a rough stone from an ethical mine to the moment it is presented, cut and polished to the consumer.
In 2018, Wanetsha Mosinyi joined De Beers as Social Impact and Sustainability Officer at De Beers Group; He resides in Gaborone, Botswana, where he was born and raised in a farming community. Today he is among the most respected members of the country’s diamond industry, precisely because of his focus on sustainability, ethical practices and focus on creating new opportunities for his fellow Botswana. De Beers’ choice to partner directly with its country’s government has been a major reason for the success of the group’s mining practices and the surrounding community. His current target is also ambitious: “We aim to reduce our carbon emissions by 42 percent in Scope 1 and Scope 2 by 25 percent by 2030,” he says. Hollywood Reporter.
In October 2025, De Beers — facing financial difficulties as the cost of lab-grown diamonds continues to decline, impacting the company’s core business — introduced “Desert Diamonds,” an initiative rooted in showcasing the wide range of colors available in natural stones, from bright white to brilliant yellow, champagne hues, deep amber and other colors inspired by the Sahara Desert. While Desert Diamonds can be viewed as a program created to highlight the benefits of natural diamonds compared to lab-grown stones, Morrison also points out that natural stones offer an additional benefit. “We love that with these products, you can have a diamond that matches beautifully,” she says The color of your skin, for example.” “If you’ve ever looked at the diamond you’re wearing and thought the color isn’t the one that suits you best, Desert Diamonds can correct that.” Since its launch last fall, the Desert Diamonds collection has been seen on many red carpets, from Rose Byrne at the 2025 Academy Awards to Jessie Buckley and Kate Hudson at the 2025 Actor Awards.
Consumers—whether red carpet workers or civilians—who are concerned about the environmental or human cost of their jewelry must ask tough questions. You may like the design, but do you know how it was designed? Understanding the options – including vintage sources, ethical sources, or lab-grown stones – is a necessary step. For Silva, this information only enhances the enjoyment of the purchase.
“I don’t think it’s ever just one thing,” she says. “It should speak aesthetically to someone, but it should also fit their lifestyle, and that includes their commitment to sustainability. For us, vintage pieces have no age. You might respond to them because they celebrate your personal style; once you choose them, they’re meant to last forever.”
This story appears in “Hollywood Reporter”Sustainability issue for 2026. Click here to read more.
