London Fashion Week, known more for nurturing new talent than its big-name shows, kicks off Thursday with a tribute to one of its pioneers, Paul Costello.
The Irish-American designer, who died aged 80 last November, was a regular presence on the opening day of Fashion Week in the British capital since the show’s inception in 1984.
For four decades, his romantic fashion shows have remained a constant: a testament to the ups and downs of London Fashion Week, which has seen major fashion names depart for their counterparts in Milan, Paris and New York in recent years.
His son William Costello is now the brand’s creative director, writing on social media ahead of London Fashion Week’s fall/winter 2026 opening show: “A new season. A powerful moment. A legacy moving forward.”
Tolu Coker, the British-Nigerian designer who launched her label in 2018, will also showcase on Thursday her elegant, primarily unisex designs inspired by diverse identities.
High-profile names including Harris Reed and Richard Quinn will return to the London runway, with Burberry closing out the week in usual fashion on Monday evening.
Other brands will bring a royal flavor to the runway, with brands worn by Princess Catherine including Emilia Wickstead, Adeline Lee and Erdem.
However, there will be no show by famed Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson, who has been one of the most eagerly anticipated people at London Fashion Week in recent seasons.
The 41-year-old took over at Dior last June, leaving him little time for his own brand, JW Anderson, which he founded in 2008.
For several years, London has been losing ground to star-studded rivals in Paris and Milan, but it has clung to its role as a breeding ground for young talent.
The British Fashion Council’s NewGen initiative provides funding for emerging talent, with many up-and-coming designers finding their footing at Fashion Week through the incubator.
– ‘Great support’ –
Designers like Simone Rocha, Tolu Coker and Roksanda have become fashion week mainstays after making their debut on the NewGen platform.
Among the new celebrities is Joshua Usie, a 27-year-old British creative born to Ghanaian parents who is set to present his second fashion week show with his brand “EWUsie.”
The young designer was supported by the King’s Foundation, a charity founded by King Charles III, in partnership with Chanel, which granted him studio space shortly after he graduated from the prestigious Central Saint Martins.
Iosi told AFP before his show at London Fashion Week on Sunday that his hometown of London, which has many prominent fashion schools, provides “great support for young designers.”
“I think there are a lot of opportunities that London offers to help emerging brands get started,” he added.
The designer says his new collection is inspired by the 1980s, when his mother moved to London. It’s all about culture and identity, with leather being the primary material.
French designer Pauline Dugancourt, known for her work in knitwear, also chose to stay at London Fashion Week after studying at Ecole d’Aubert in Paris and Central Saint Martins in London.
The 31-year-old, who will be showing her collection on Sunday, said: “Although Paris Fashion Week is amazing and I dream of being part of it one day, there might be a little more room for younger brands in London to begin with.”
“I think people came to London Fashion Week expecting to see a bit of modernity and younger generations as opposed to Paris and Milan, where it’s more like established houses.”
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