NEW DELHI: Nestled amid the rocky outcrops of South Delhi’s Vasant Kunj, the Sultan Garhi complex lies undisturbed, its weathered stone walls a testament to eight centuries of history, neglect, rediscovery and now renewed controversy.
Built by Sultan Shams al-Din Iltutmish of the Delhi Sultanate in 1231 for his eldest son Nasir al-Din Mahmud, Sultan Garhi is considered by many historians to be the first Islamic shrine in India. Long before Delhi’s architectural identity was defined by the grandeur of Humayun’s Tomb – which came more than 300 years later -, this almost secret fortified structure marked the beginning of a funerary tradition that would shape the architecture of the Indian subcontinent.
Unlike later Mughal tombs which strove for showiness and splendor, Sultan Garhi’s is recessed. Its central crypt is located below ground level, surrounded by high, rugged walls that resemble a castle more than a tomb. According to experts, the structure blends early Indo-Islamic architectural elements with local craftsmanship, and includes reused temple fragments, intricate stone carvings and a courtyard that has doubled over the centuries as a site of local veneration.
However, despite its historical importance, the Sultan Garhi area – which lies adjacent to the Vasant Kunj sector – has slipped into obscurity. Besieged by urban sprawl, the memorial has remained largely neglected in mainstream narratives of Delhi’s past.
Historian Swapna Liddle said: “It is ironic that what is arguably the first of its kind in India is also among the least understood. Sultan Garhi represents a transitional moment as Islamic funerary practices began to adapt to Indian materials, aesthetics and labor. Its significance is foundational rather than ornamental.”
The monument’s isolation was both its bane and its protection. Encroaching vegetation, minimal footfall, and limited conservation have ensured that the pressures of mass tourism are avoided, but they have also suffered from neglect.
Garden proposal and controversy
In 2017, the Delhi Development Authority (DDA) sought to change that. It proposed to develop a 25-hectare heritage park around the Sultan Garhi area, envisioning landscaped areas, improved accessibility, and water harvesting systems with a view to water conservation as well as public engagement.
But the proposal has languished for years, stuck in bureaucratic gridlock. Now, nearly nine years later, work has finally begun, but has been halted again amid allegations that have sparked new debate over how to restore heritage sites.
According to DDA officials familiar with the project, the initial groundwork involved clearing large areas of vegetation to make way for walkways and infrastructure.
However, this reportedly included felling 4-5 trees without proper deforestation, according to activists, prompting the forest department to intervene. A senior DDA official, who spoke on condition of anonymity, defended the project’s aim but admitted there were procedural lapses.
“The aim has always been to maintain and enhance the site’s visibility. Some initial works may have exceeded approvals, but corrective steps are being taken,” the official said.
However, conservationists and historians see the issue as deeper than just administrative oversight. “This approach seems cosmetic rather than scientific,” Liddell said. “You cannot treat a 13th-century monument like a public park project. Restoration must be done through archaeological research, material analysis, and historical context. Otherwise you risk erasing the very authenticity you claim to protect.”
Experts said that the uniqueness of Sultan Garhi lies not only in its age, but in its multi-layered construction – its use of reused building fragments, its hybrid stylistic vocabulary, and its integration with the surrounding terrain. They argue that any intervention must be sensitive to these elements.
Environmental concerns added to the project’s complexity. “The ecosystem of the surrounding Aravalli mountain range is as important as the monument itself,” said Gunjan Uppal, an activist who lives in the area. “Cutting down trees in this area disrupts biodiversity, affects groundwater recharge, and changes the local climate. Heritage preservation cannot come at the cost of environmental damage.”
Over the centuries, the tomb has also served as a dargah, attracting devotees who regard Nasir al-Din Mahmud as a saintly figure. This tradition adds another layer of complexity to conservation efforts, requiring a balance between conservation and community use.
With the DDA pausing work to look into the allegations, for now, the project remains in limbo, its future uncertain, and its past once again overshadowed by current disputes. But what cannot be denied is the Garhi Sultan’s place in the story of Delhi.
“This is where it all began,” Liddell added. “Before the grand narratives, before the imperial statements, there was this quiet experimental structure. If we fail to preserve it properly, we will not only lose a monument, we will lose the origin of the tradition.”
