Clank of seafood and rare ale: Luke Selby’s recipes to warm a Welsh winter

FFor me, the best winter cooking is about comfort, warmth, and connection — food that feels familiar, but still tells a story. I’ve always been drawn to dishes that celebrate simple, honest ingredients and local traditions, and these two recipes are inspired by that spirit, and a childhood spent fishing in Wales. The seafood clatter is a lighter, more coastal take on the Welsh classic, while the sound of the rare is rich and nostalgic. Both are designed to be cooked slowly and shared generously, and are an ode to home kitchens, good produce and quiet moments around the table.

Sea rumble (smoked haddock, leeks and barley – pictured above)

This is a suspicious twist on the national dish of Wales, a hearty stew traditionally made with meat and root vegetables.

Preparatory school 15 minutes
He cooks 1 hour and 10 minutes
serves 4

2 tablespoons butter
2 leekstrimmed, thinly sliced, washed and drained
2 garlic clovesPeeled and finely chopped
1 stalk of celerytrimmed and cut into small cubes
Sea salt and black pepper
150 grams of pearl barley
150 ml of dry apple juice
1 liter fish stockor vegetable broth
400 grams of smoked haddock fillets
100 ml double cream
1 tablespoon whole grain mustard
1 tablespoon chopped dill
1 tablespoon dill oil (Optional, for serving; to prepare, simply toss 20g of dill in 20g of sunflower oil, allow to infuse, then strain well through cheesecloth and store in a clean container in the refrigerator for up to 2 months)
Lemon wedgesFor service

Melt the butter in a heavy skillet over medium heat, add the shallots, garlic, celery, and a pinch of salt, and gently sauté, stirring, for 8 to 10 minutes, until soft and sweet. Add the pearl barley and toast for a minute, then add the apple juice, bring to the boil and cook until reduced by half. Pour in the broth, bring to a simmer and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 30-35 minutes until the barley is tender.

Place the haddock on top of the barley, then cover the pan with a lid and let the fish gently steam for six to eight minutes, until it flakes easily. Remove the fish, cut it into large pieces, then put it in the barley with cream, mustard, and chopped dill. Season generously, taste and adjust as needed.

Ladle into warm bowls, drizzle with a little dill oil, if using, and serve with lemon wedges for a touch of brightness.

Rare black bomber with onion jam

Rare served with a glass of beer — Luke Selby Black Bomber Rare with Onion Jam.

There are few hot snacks or light lunches more satisfying than the Welsh Rarebit, so it pays to give some proper attention to the classic.

Preparatory school 10 minutes
He cooks 45 minutes
serves 4

2 tablespoons butter
1 large onionPeeled and cut into thin slices
Sea salt and pepper
1 teaspoon brown sugar
1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon plain flour
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon English mustard
100 ml of dark beer – I use The boundaries of the magical dragon are bitter
200 grams Snowdonia Black Bomber Cheddar– Or any other type of mature cheddar cheese, grated
1 egg yolk
4 thick slices of sturdy beer bread (about 250 grams) or sourdough

First prepare the onion jam. Melt a tablespoon of butter in a small frying pan over low heat, then add the chopped onion and a pinch of salt, and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, for 25-30 minutes, until soft and golden. Add the sugar and vinegar, cook for another five minutes until sticky, then remove from the heat.

While the marmalade is cooking, prepare the rarebet mixture. Melt the remaining tablespoon of butter in a second skillet, then add the flour to form a roux. Add the Worcestershire sauce, mustard, beer and a pinch of pepper, then heat gently, stirring until combined and thickened. Gradually add the cheese until it melts and the sauce becomes smooth, then remove from the heat and add the egg yolk until the ingredients are well mixed. Turn off the heat and allow to cool slightly – when cool, the rarebet mixture should thicken and turn into a spreadable paste.

Toast the bread slightly on both sides under a hot grill. Spread a spoonful of onion jam on one side of each slice, then place a large amount of the rare mixture on top. Return the rare bread side to the hot grill for two or three minutes, until the rare is bubbly and golden, then serve immediately with an additional spoonful of marmalade on the side and a pint of beer, if desired.