Chef Daniel Boulud reveals how dining has changed in New York: more casual dining and more caviar

Known for his lavish dining rooms and elegant bistros from Hong Kong to Palm Beach, Daniel Boulud, 71, has overseen his eponymous flagship restaurant on Manhattan’s Upper East Side. THRNew York Affair Party – For over 30 years. As he prepares to open his 25th restaurant — Brasserie Boulud across from Lincoln Center — he’s evaluating new restaurants in New York.

How hHow has the formality of good food changed in the past 30 years?

OG restaurants are less crowded now; The approach is more casual and more global. Strict rules have developed, which I believe contributed to the emergence of private clubs. At my steakhouse, La Tete d’Or, we don’t have set rules, but 80 percent of the guests dress appropriately. Those who prefer a more casual experience tend to gravitate toward the bar.

WAre you noticing trends these days in what people are eating or drinking?

People are putting caviar on everything lately; It seems to be all over social media these days. At the same time, I’m seeing a renewed appreciation for the classics, from table-side service to restaurants that draw inspiration from the past. The classic bistro never really went away, but it’s enjoying a strong renaissance at places like Le Veau d’Or. I’ve seen countless interpretations of Beef Wellington, even though the dish is over 200 years old. People are more inclined towards sharing, adding an extra dish or two to the table. There is also a growing trend around mocktails, although wine and cocktail sales across our portfolio remain flat.

WWho are the young New York chefs and restaurateurs you admire these days? That is, in Los Angeles?

I love Quique Crudo, a 14-seat bar from Cosme Aguilar, who also runs a popular Mexican restaurant in Queens. I’m a fan of Stefano Cecchi’s Rezdôra, and Chez Fifi, which is small and classically designed. In Los Angeles, I love Pasjoli by Dave Beran — it’s a fun place — and I think Byron, Wolfgang Puck’s son, is the new kid on the block with real talent.

This story appeared in the May 6 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. Click here to subscribe.

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