The story of a brick kiln in Madurai

As electric ovens and OTG devices take over modern kitchens, a small bakery in Madurai continues to operate amid heat, fire and instinct. At Sri Muthu Iswaran Bakery & Sweets, the day begins with the fire of a stone oven, as glowing embers replace timers, and the smell of baking fills the narrow street. With no preset controls for creaminess or smoothness, each batch is judged through skill, experience and the belief that this traditional method imparts flavor that no modern machine can match.

M Sakthivel, one of the owners, stands in front of the large, glowing brick oven, scooping seasoned, breaded and fluffy cakes inside with a long-handled shovel. He works without safety gloves, relying on his decades of experience under high temperatures. Within minutes of the dough going into the oven, a warm, familiar scent begins to spread through the bakery.

Speaking about using a brick kiln, Sakthivel says it requires a distinct skill, developed through experience. He points out that the bakery has been operating for 54 years. “It was started by my father, K. Mariappan. I learned by watching and helping him, and today my brother and I run the shop,” he says.

Each baked item – pies, bread, pasta, cakes – is made in-house and each requires a different baking time. “For example, it usually takes about 20 minutes to puff, but this depends on the outside temperature. If it’s colder outside, it will take longer to bake.” He adds that not only the timing, but even the embers must be adjusted for each product. Explaining the capacity of the oven, he said that up to 200 puffs can be baked at the same time in the brick oven.

Comparing the brick oven to modern electric methods, Sakthivel says: “Although most people are moving towards electric and easy cooking, we have become accustomed to this traditional style. It also gives better quality and taste, so we continue to bake this way.”

One of their most popular offerings is the cookie.

“What we now call cookies were known as juicy berry cookies at the time,” he says. “Made with dough, sugar, flour, butter, baking powder and flavorings of our choice, and baked for 10 to 15 minutes in our brick oven.”

Speaking of items that require longer baking, Sakthivel says baking takes about 30 minutes. “Slow baking gives them a soft texture and enhances the flavor,” he adds.

The flames remain burning in the brick oven around the clock, adding warmth to the bakery. At closing time, the embers are reduced and the remaining heat is used to bake the day’s bread into a crispy, golden rusk.

“Once the shop opens, the rusks are ready – hot and crunchy – and then we start preparing the macaroons, turning up the heat of the brick oven,” he adds.

When asked about sales in the early days, he said: “In the evening, we would pack the goods in boxes and carry them on a bicycle through the streets, selling them fresh and warm. It was a simple routine, and each piece cost between five and ten piastres.”

S Ramasamy, a retired teacher, remembers buying coconuts and vegetable puffs from their father’s bike in the evenings. “The muffins and puffs were warm and fresh. It felt like a little treat every day after coming home from school.” Aarav, a university student, learned about the bakery through one of his relatives, and it has now become his favorite shop

“The taste is unique, and the bakery is very clean. You can really tell that the products are made with care.”

Some traditions remain unchanged, providing comfort and authenticity – like the 54-year-old glowing brick oven at Sri Muthu Eshwaran Bakery & Sweets.

It is located at 2/18, Raja Mill Road, Madurai Main, Madurai, Pundhotam