CEdrus season brings a whole new dimension of flavoring – a way to add vibrancy, nuance and brightness beyond the standard squeeze of lemon. To me, citrus isn’t just acidity: it’s a complex alternative to sugar and vinegar, offering bitterness, floral tones, sweetness and sharpness in equal measure. Now that there are over a hundred varieties of lemons, clementines, and limes, it’s easy for me to see them in two groups: sour citrus and sweet citrus. Once you know what you’re working with, you can explore the complexity of each category and decide how best to use it.
Pork Chops with Citrus Butter (pictured above)
A well-seasoned pork loin requires little garnish. For the butter, I use tart lemons for acidity and balance things out with a squeeze of sweet clementines.
Product 10 min
Cook 40 min
serves 2
For the citrus butter
150 grams room temperature butter
20 grams of parsley leavesfinally cut
20 grams of onionfinally cut
1 tsp Fine sea salt
40ml of lemon juiceor other sour citrus juice
30ml clementine juiceor other sweet citrus juice
For pork
Salt and pepper
1 large piece of porkor 2 smaller ones – the best quality you can get your hands on
Neutral oilto Searing
First make the citrus butter. Put everything in a bowl, beat until smooth, then taste and adjust the seasoning. It should have a subtle sweetness and saltiness with a sharp, citrusy finish. Cover and cool or, if cooking immediately, at room temperature.
Now for the bacon. Preheat the oven to 70C (50C fan)/140F/gas low. Place a skillet over medium-high heat until very hot. Meanwhile, lightly sear both sides. Add a little oil to a hot pan and sear for a minute on each side.
Transfer the pork to a rack on a plate, then transfer to the oven for 10 minutes. Don’t wash the pan: it will have fat and caramelized bits. After 10 minutes, sear the pork on both sides in the hot pan, then return it to the rack and oven for another 10 minutes: you’re aiming for a core temperature of 60C.
Once the chop reaches temperature, crisp up the crust and raise the core to 63C, with a final scraping in the same pan on top of the oven.
Thinly slice, arrange the meat on two plates, drizzle the citrus butter over the top and serve.
Citrus curd, amaretti and pear
A light, balanced dessert built around sharp citrus curd, amaretti and fresh pear, playing off texture and acidity that keeps sweetness in check.
Product 15 min
Cook 40 min
Cold 30 min+
serves 4-6
For Amaretti
70 grams of egg whites
200 grams of sugar
200 grams of ground almonds
For the citrus curd
100 ml fresh lemon juiceand an additional 35 ml for flavoring
40 grams of sugar
100 grams of whole eggs
160 grams of unsalted butter
up to 60 ml fresh clementine juiceor other sweet citrus juice (optional and to taste)
Cardamom for peace
1 teaspoon of icing sugar
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
100ml double cream
A pinch of saltpink is best
to finish
2 fresh pearsthe cord was sliced thin at the last minute
First make the curd. Place the lemon juice, sugar and eggs in a bowl of, but not touching, boiling water and whisk until the mixture reaches 80C. Scrape down the sides of the bowl to make sure the mixture is well combined, then add the butter and whisk vigorously for 20 seconds until very smooth and creamy. Transfer to a bowl and taste – adjust with additional lemon to taste and balance acidity with a little sweet clementine juice if needed. Divide the yogurt mixture between four small serving glasses (those little French tumblers or similar), then refrigerate for 30 minutes to chill.
Now for the biscuits. Stupid Beat the egg whites until fluffy, then gradually mix in 50g of the sugar until it dissolves and the mixture forms soft peaks. In a second bowl, add the ground almonds along with the remaining 150g of sugar and gently fold into the beaten egg white mixture to form a sticky dough.
Wet your hands lightly with water, then divide the dough into 15g balls – you should get 20 in total – and place these on a greased and lined baking tray, spacing them apart to allow for expansion during baking.
Preheat the oven to 185C (165C fan)/360F/Gas 4½, then bake the biscuits for 12-15 minutes, until crisp on the edges but with a chewy centre. Transfer to a rack and let cool completely.
Meanwhile, mix together the icing sugar and cardamom in a small bowl. Whip the cream, then gradually beat the cream into the icing sugar mixture until it forms soft peaks – take care not to overdo it so it’s smooth and light. Add salt and grind lightly.
To assemble, top each glass of yogurt with a spoonful of cardamom sandal, then first two crushed amaretti biscuits and then six thin slices of fresh pear. Serve at once or refrigerate until ready to serve.
Max Coen is chef/co-owner of Dorian, London W11
